Camino de Santiago, thank you!

I'm happy to report that the rest of my camino adventure evolved without a hitch, and I reached Santiago de Compostela on Saturday, Oct. 20. No words can do justice to the various sensations one experiences upon arriving in Santiago after walking hundreds of kilometers. "Magical" and "unique" capture a portion. The city has a special energy as it receives newly arrived pilgrims on a daily basis. I stayed in Santiago longer than planned due to this energy, this unique ambiance. I feel incredibly blessed to have made this pilgrimage, and am grateful to everyone who kept me in their thoughts and prayers as I trekked across northern Spain these past weeks. Thank you, thank you, thank you, for I kept healthy, including blister-free! I am now in Madrid, where I´ll be for a few more days before returning to the States. A special shout out to dear friends Carmen and Angel who have opened their home so generously to me, a five-star "Madrid base camp" for this pilgrim.
Buen camino everyone, for we all are pilgrims on daily pilgrimages! Denise

September 15 - Santo Domingo de la Calzada

I have now been on the Camino for just over 10 days, and have covered approximately 200 kilometers of the 800 to Santiago.
Today I am in a town in Spain's major wine-producing region, La Rioja. Have been walking by a lot of ripe vineyards the last couple of days! Santo Domingo is named for the saint born here who promoted the Camino and helped improve its physical condition for pilgrims. Today is also one of many days of local fiestas here, to honor yet another saint. Much music, bell-ringing, and alegria pervade the atmosphere!
Santo Domingo has a great Center for the Interpretation of the Camino de Santiago, Km. 550, from where I am posting this entry, just a few doors down from my night's lodging. Unfortunately, it's about to close for the day, so this post is much briefer than I planned.
Can't say enough good about walking the Camino, truly an amazing experience. It's like a walking mini-United Nations, as fellow pilgrims hail from all corners of the globe. Brazilians and Irish are standing out for me due to their large numbers, but I've also met folks from Australia, Estonia, Iceland, Poland, to name a few other countries.
Stay tuned, for I will try to post at some other point in this journey. Burgos is the next main city I will pass through, and I may opt to spend two evenings there to catch up on correspondence.
Buen camino, Denise

August 2012 -- El Camino beckons...SPAIN or bust!

This month I've taken some big steps. I've been breaking in my first pair of hiking boots. By month's end those same boots are in Spain, where I've landed during this last week. I am about to embark on a long walk, a walk I've wanted to take for over 30 years. I've always embraced the idea that life is a pilgrimage, and now is the time for me to make a 500-mile long pilgrimage across northern Spain. "The Way of St. James," - El camino de Santiago in Spanish - was portrayed beautifully in last year's film "The Way" - directed by Emilio Estevez and starring his father, Martin Sheen. I will be walking most of September and October, and do hope to be able to post at least a couple of updates here. Stay tuned.
Buen camino!
Denise

June/July 2012 - Nebraska, "the good life" and RPCV-land

Yes, I have been enjoying the good ol' summertime in my home state this year; first time I've been able to do so since college days. It has been wonderful, and the corn was indeed way more than knee-high by the 4th of July. Unfortunately, the record-breaking drought we are experiencing this year has adversely affected the cornfields, and everything else that needs H2O to survive. I've been based in my hometown, Nebraska City, while I work on job applications, help out my folks, and keep physically active. My first major post-Peace Corps purchase was a bicycle, and it's what gets me around our scenic county seat, the home of Arbor Day. Thankfully our small town has a wonderful fitness center, complete with an indoor pool, and I've become a regular, especially in the pool.

I ventured up to Minneapolis, MN for a few days in late June/early July to join other Returned Peace Corps Volunteers (RPCVs, my "new" status), for the first annual gathering of RPCVs to be held on a national scale, coordinated by the National Peace Corps Association (NPCA). I'm really glad I attended (even if I did lose my Paraguayan thermos to a thirsty, fellow-traveller on the last-leg of my Greyhound bus transportation between Minneapolis and Omaha). The NPCA and the Peace Corps' Office of the Third Goal and RPCV Services did a great job with this event. The final day included a Third Goal Expo, and was open to the public. It was fun to staff a Paraguay table with other RPCVs from Paraguay. We festooned our space with nanduti, wood pieces and, of course, a thermos and guampa with which to offer folks a taste of terere, the Paraguayan version of cold, iced tea.

I've made reference to the Peace Corps' "Third Goal." You may wonder what that means. Here it is verbatim from the Peace Corps web site, http://www.peacecorps.gov/resources/returned/thirdgoal/whatis/:

"The Third Goal of the Peace Corps aims to help Americans understand the people and cultures of other countries. It is one of the three goals that support the mission of the Peace Corps to promote world peace and friendship." (The first two goals are focused on the country of service; the Third Goal brings the Peace Corps "home.")

So, now that I'm officially a RPCV (Returned Peace Corps Volunteer) I'm pleased to be able to live the Third Goal of the Peace Corps, sharing my experiences lived outside of the US with Americans here at home. I'm looking forward to meeting fellow RPCVs based in Nebraska at a potluck gathering next month, at which time we'll also welcome newly-nominated Peace Corps Volunteers. Long live--VIVA!--the Peace Corps, both at home and abroad!
Peace,
Denise Davis
RPCV Paraguay 2009-2012

May 2012 - End of an era, hasta luego Paraguay!

I made it to my Close-of-Service (COS) date, May 18, smoothly and safely. My goal was to reach the milestone sans medical issues, lost articles, security concerns and/or any other assorted adverse dilemmas that can cross one's path, especially when running around the country trying to cross off items on a lengthy to-do list. Mission accomplished! In addition to your own personal to-dos, the Peace Corps Paraguay gives you a check-out list with nearly 30 items on it as you submit documentation and property to Peace Corps staff. Add to the mix the physical logistics in getting all your remaining belongings to the capital. Thanks to everyone who helped make my departure relatively hassle-free. A special shout-out to the Peace Corps staff here in Paraguay--kudos to each and every one of them who were always so helpful to me and willing to go the extra mile if needed. I will miss them all!

Even though my last official day as a Volunteer was May 18, I returned to Guaira for another week or so to wrap things up and greet folks once again in both Villarrica and Troche. My final Saturday at the CCPA in Villarrica was May 26, and it was an especially great day, a perfect way to finish up there. Three other Volunteers were there to offer a talk on African culture, both in the States and in Paraguay. The big salon was packed to standing-room only, and more kids than ever seemed to be in the library checking out books. A hopping place, one I will miss very much. Hope to try SKYPING with the conversation group on future Saturday mornings!

Muchas gracias to all the Paraguayans who once again displayed generous Paraguayan hospitality, showering me with many unexpected gifts in my final days with them. I couldn't say "Good-bye" to anyone for I know I will be back to visit my Paraguayan friends and families. Meanwhile, here's a partial list of the many, many things I will miss about Paraguay (no special order, just many things I jotted down during my last weeks here):

-thermoses as conversation pieces
-seamless existence with the outdoors
-oxcarts
-red dirt
-clop-clop of horse steps, especially in the early morning while awaking
-BUSES - really!: long-distance bus rides, getting on and off moving buses, personalized stops, vendors on board
-ubiquitous outdoor volleyball pits
-mango trees, especially sitting underneath them to share terere
-hand-washing, especially in the sunny outdoors - another "really!"
-Paraguayan countryside
-mbeju, sopa, chipa - typical Paraguayan foods
-flexibility (both a blessing and a curse, depending on what you need!)
-harp music
-"rain days"
-Ñanduti and ao poi (typical Paraguayan artesania)
-quinchos
-Paraguayan countryside
-cows everywhere
-random firecrackers
-clothes hanging out to dry on fences of all kinds
-contrasting juxtapositions of building types
-school children walking along the rutas in their uniforms
-hand-clapping as doorbells
-Coca-Cola mixed with red wine
-avocado, grapefruit and lemon trees outside the house
-cheap haircuts and other salon services
-night sky, complete with the Southern Cross
-bike rides around Villarrica, catching glimpses of the Ybytyruzu hills
-despensas and other small shops
-tranquilopa--tranquility--the more relaxed pace of life in general

Viva Paraguay and Paraguayans! I WILL be back!
Con mucho cariño, Denise

April 2012 - Final full month south of the equator

OK, now really superinfused with a transition mentality. The 100-day countdown that started back in February encompassed days 48-19 this April. Accomplished some good work at the CCPA as the teachers and students continue to increase their use of the library, and also spent some time at the schools in Troche, the town where I lived prior to Villarrica. The month started with an observance of the International Children's Book Day on April 2, Hans Christian Andersen's birthday. I visited my "old school" in Troche, sharing some new books with the librarians and some of the students. I also visited Nico's kindergarten class for the first time. He selected a book from the ones I've given him and took it to school. His teacher let me read it, Froggy Juega al Futbol as the kids sat in a circle. Afterwards they all drew pictures of their favorite part of the story. Nico is pictured here as he works on his drawing of Froggy playing soccer. Spending time with kids as they enjoy books is prime time of life's most magical moments, no?

Holy Week included a quick trip to San Ignacio, Misiones to see one of Paraguay's neatest Easter events, Tañarandy.

This boy is lighting a wick set in cowfat placed within a halved grapefruit or orange, thousands of which are lined up along this country road. Bamboo poles placed on both shoulders of the road also became torches once the sun set on Good Friday. The event also included living representations of religious art, e.g. Dali's Last Supper.

April also included my final South American vacation while a Peace Corps Volunteer. Buenos Aires is a "mere" 18-20 hour bus ride from Asuncion, and has been beckoning ever since I arrived back in 2009. I have visited Argentina's capital before, back in 2004 for an international library conference, but I had yet to visit the tango mecca while living down this way. The last day in BA I was able to take in the International Book Fair...amazing, and chicken soup for a librarian's soul! I'm smitten with this logo BA designed for this year's fair:

Once back in Paraguay, it was more celebration of books on April 23rd, UNESCO's International Day of the Book. At the CCPA we gave out certificates, bookmarks and stickers to all the children who have checked out books from the library this year. Here are some of their happy faces:

We didn't hold a contest, we just surprised the eager readers...and now their classmates who didn't get certificates, etc. are clamoring to check out books! Vivan los libros!

March forth!

Yes indeed, for this month put my 100-day countdown at the halfway mark--as of March 30 I have/had just 50 days remaining of Peace Corps service, eeegads! As all RPCVs (Returned Peace Corps Volunteers) know, the final months/days/weeks of the Peace Corps experience are a rollercoaster ride de verdad...so many loose ends to wrap up on all fronts...personally, professionally, you name it!

March 2012 was really a great period for me here. Things at the CCPA are in full swing once again, and the Saturday conversation group has really taken off. I'm now introducing them to the concept of Reader's Theatre, and we're having fun reading some short plays out loud. The large book donation received from the US Embassy last month is now processed and in circulation. The children are really checking out books on a regular basis now, it's great to see that happening. The teachers are using the library more too, and that's refreshing.

I ended the month in Asuncion, as I began the medical clearance portion of finishing my service. We get a physical, have lab tests run, and visit a dentist. The latter check-up revealed the need to have a root canal, a first for me. Had no idea that procedure is so involved--I spent two full mornings in the dental chair, and have to return a third time next month for the reconstruction of the tooth. Fortunately, I can say that I've been pleased with the quality of dental care I've received...gracias a Dios!

February 2012 - the countdown begins

February 2012 was great, especially with the extra day! I began the month in Bolivia, where I was exploring one of Paraguay's neighbors for the first time with a fellow Peace Corps Volunteer. We didn't have a lot of time, so our trip focused on the triad of La Paz, the Salt Flats (photo), and Lake Titicaca. La Paz, the world's highest capital city, hit me with a dose of altitude sickness. Really did need to take it easy for a day or two. We journeyed south of La Paz to view just a smidgeon of the immense salt flats, the world's largest. What a sight, especially when there's a blue sky, and the surface is covered with water from recent rains...the effect is one of the flats being one huge mirror of the sky...picture blue-tinted, sparkling snow!...AMAZING! Lake Titicaca was beautiful too.

Once back in Paraguay it was nice to be joined by my colleagues at the CCPA; everyone was back from their summer vacation. (They have it pretty good. Last day of work had been December 23; they returned on February 6. Not bad, right?) We hosted a visit from US Embassy officers this month, and they included a book donation with their visit. Most of the books were non-fiction for children--awesome! The gift included two Kindles as well, loaded with books in English. I'm having fun learning to use a Kindle--finally!--and in turn showing it to both students and teachers.

My first week back I marked a milestone on my calendar--the beginning of my 100-day countdown as a Peace Corps volunteer. I mention this in a most positive vein, as in trying to make the most of each and every day that remains (NOT a count-down of the "oh, I can't wait for this to be over" variety!) As of that 100th day, February 9, I'm making a concerted effort to make every day extra special in some way. Granted, I try to do that anyway, as life's modus operandi, right, but now that approach feels infused with an extra-mindfulness, an extra-awareness of the passing of time in this particular place called Paraguay that I've called home for the past three years. As much as I look forward to resuming life back home, it will be very difficult to leave this country and its people.

Hard to believe I've been here three full years already. Living my fourth season of Lent here, which also means watching my fourth round of CARNAVAL! Saw it a couple of times this year, both in Villarrica and Troche. 9-year old Beta of my Troche family made her CARNAVAL debut, dancing with a little girls' troupe. The one in Troche got over later than the one in Villarrica, approximately 4am....can you believe it, and even on a school night!

January 2012 - Beginning a year of two summers

When I started this blog I had no idea I would still be posting from Paraguay at this juncture. With this month I am experiencing my third Paraguayan summer in January. I am definitely more acclimated to the heat than I was back in 2009. In fact, I am doing my best to embrace it this round since it's likely to be my final hot January for a while. Every day I am grateful to be living a January free of ice and snow, savoring the difference from my native Midwest at this time of year. I'm walking and riding my bike every day, enjoying fresh air--albeit hot and humid!--as much as possible, both night and day! We're having a bit of a drought this year, which is unfortunate. The main upside though is that there aren't nearly as many mosquitoes. I sleep with my windows open, sans screens, and haven't even had to use bug spray most nights...increible!

This month I've had the CCPA pretty much to myself. It is closed for summer vacation. I still held some informal English conversation classes, and used the time to make some headway on the library physical reorganization, filling the tables with piles of books I'd removed from the shelves and figuring out how to realign them based on our space constraints. (No uniform classification system was in place before.) I also visited a new volunteer in a neighboring province, helping her launch her first foray into a children's camp. She is more of a campo volunteer, and it was fun to get out in the countryside, using the outhouse and trekking the three miles from the bus stop to her village on one of Paraguay's ubiquitous red dirt roads. The month wouldn't be complete without a visit or two to Troche, claro esta! Spent Three Kings Day with the family, and then joined them again for Nico's birthday number five.

Ah, lest I forget ;), I've also been trying to raise funds for another rendition of our national library workshop. We still need lots of help, so it's not too late to donate. This will be the final time I make this request, so if you haven't yet had a chance to contribute to this project, here's your opportunity:

https://www.peacecorps.gov/index.cfm?shell=donate.contribute.projDetail&projdesc=526-232

Thanks in advance for your help, and please share this link with anyone else you think might be interested in contributing to our project. If you have any questions don't hesitate to e-mail me, dmdnebraska@yahoo.com